Do you experience dryness and skin problems, particularly on your face, during the winter? Winter skin can seem complicated, but fortunately the cause is straightforward – and the solutions are simple. Understand your winter skin with a few “cold facts”, explained by our skincare expert Christina Düsterdich.

The simple reason

Our skin is put to the test in winter due to the constant shift between the dry heat of indoor radiators and the cold air and wind that batter our cheeks outside.

These changing environments can cause the skin to react in many different ways, and often it all happens at once: anything from the skin becoming oilier, to extremely flaky and dry, to redness and irritation, and to more spots than usual. The sensation that creams and oils are not being absorbed by the skin is also a typical sign.

The skin has naturally occurring oils that form a protective barrier on the surface, making it almost 100 per cent waterproof. The wind, cold and low humidity we experience in the Nordic countries during winter can impair the skin’s barrier function, causing moisture to evaporate from the skin and leaving it dehydrated, stressed and susceptible to frostbite.

The simple solutions

Use gentler, milder cleansing products

The choice of cleansing products in your skincare routine is important in terms of how your skin looks and feels for the rest of the day. Your skin dries out and is more prone to irritation in cold weather, so it’s a good idea to strengthen your skin by switching from astringent, foaming cleansers, cleansing gels or soaps to a gentler, milder cleanser. Whatever your skin type, you could try cleansing lotions, cleansing milks and oil-based cleansing balms instead, which cleanse without drying out the skin, thereby keeping the skin’s barrier intact.

Avoid hot water and excessive amounts of water

Water can dry out the skin to a certain extent. Water contains minerals, including calcium, which gives tap water a drying, alkaline pH that is not ideal for the skin. Hot water in particular can have a dehydrating effect, as it strips the skin’s protective oils from the surface and can leave the skin feeling tight, which is particularly noticeable immediately after a bath or wash.

The most important factor for skin health is maintaining the natural bacterial flora found in its protective barrier. Just as we have gut flora that requires careful attention, the skin has its own flora that needs our understanding and care so that it can do its job: protecting against dehydration, irritation and infection.

Strengthen your skin for winter by cleansing thoroughly in the evening and using only a water-free, gentle cleanser in the morning. Your skin doesn’t have the same cleansing needs after a restful night’s sleep, making the morning the ideal time to cleanse with STAR micellar water, which gently removes the night’s impurities. If you shower in the morning, try to limit the amount of water on your face as much as possible and then use a pH-balancing HERO to help restore your skin’s balance after contact with water. 

Use facial oil, even if you have oily skin

Facial oil has a softening, moisturising and protective effect, which makes the skin more resistant to the many drying elements of winter weather. The rich plant oils help to preserve the skin’s natural barrier, prevent dehydration and protect the outermost blood vessels. Facial oil is good for the skin, whatever your skin type, and oily or problematic skin can also benefit from these golden drops. It’s usually a question of getting the dosage right, and just a few drops may be enough – oily skin may need fewer drops than dry skin. Karmamejus four facial oils are tailored to every skin type, so you can choose exactly the type of plant oil and stimulating ingredients that suit your skin best. By strengthening the skin’s barrier with oil, the right facial oil can help balance the skin and leave it less oily or less dry.

Apply your winter skincare in layers, just as you do with your winter wardrobe

Think of your serum as your moisturising base layer, your face cream as your skin’s tailored dress, and your facial oil as a warm winter coat.

Start with the water-based, fast-absorbing products; moisturising mist, pH solution, face serum, face cream and eye cream, which are typically the products that infuse the skin with moisture and active ingredients. Finish with the richer, more oil-based products: face oil and balms to seal in moisture, soften the skin and protect against moisture loss, irritation and broken capillaries. If you can’t face adding yet another step to your skincare routine, or if you feel that all the layers are too much for you, then one or two drops of oil in your face cream, for example, can also make a difference.

The ideal cold-weather cream

In extreme weather conditions, such as icy winds and snow in your face whilst out running or skiing, we recommend that all skin types supplement their skincare routine with facial oils and balms to prevent frostbite. Karmameju’s CALM balm is the ideal barrier cream/cold cream/ointment for applying to the cheeks of children and adults in the winter cold and after sun exposure on a skiing holiday. CALM balm is ideal for use as a nourishing, restorative and moisturising night mask when the skin is particularly dry. CALM can be used as a natural, plant-based alternative to the K-beauty trend of ‘slugging skincare’, which involves caring for the skin with rich oils that seal in moisture.

The solution to complex winter skin – in a nutshell

• Switch from using a cleansing gel or soap to oil-based cleansing products.
• Protect your skin by cleansing with water only in the evening. Use STAR micellar water in the morning without water.
• Use HERO to stabilise your skin’s pH and barrier after contact with water.
• Avoid toners and tonics that contain alcohol.
• Opt for hydrating boosters such as hyaluronic acid in serums and face creams.
• Use nourishing, soothing and moisturising facial oils and balms.

Remember that a new routine takes time. You won’t usually see a big change from one day to the next. It takes the skin 4–6 weeks to renew itself, so you need to give the new steps in your skincare routine at least that long to see any results.

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